The
Lameshur Bay Trail connects the western part of the beach at
Lameshur Bay with the Reef Bay Trail. The 1.8-mile track includes
a steep hill that reaches an elevation of 467 feet. The distance
from Lameshur Bay to the Reef Bay sugar factory is 2.6 miles,
and from Lameshur Bay to the petroglyphs is 2.1 miles.
The public road leads right to the trailhead, which is clearly
marked by a National Park information sign. The road to the right
goes up the hill and leads to the rangers station and the Bordeaux
Mountain Trail. The ruins of the Lameshur Bay Plantation lie
in the immediate vicinity of the trail entrance and can be easily
accessed and explored.
Bay Rum Still
Sugar Works
Well
Estate Lameshur Bay
The Estate at Little Lameshur was first deeded a Dane, who lived
on St. Thomas. The estate was dedicated to cotton, but was
destroyed in the 1733 slave rebellion. Re established after
the rebellion the estate was again dedicated to cotton,
but later on sugar was produced. Sugar production ended in
1854 and subsequent to that the estate was dedicated to livestock
and bay rum. The estate house for the Lamesur Bay Plantation is
the oldest estate house still lived in on the island. It can
be found just off the Bordeaux Mountain Trail at the rangers
station.
Spur Trails
There are three spur trails on the route. The first leads to
Europa point, the second to the rubble beach at Europa Bay and
the third to the old Reef Bay Estate House. The Reef Bay Estate
House Spur has a spur of its own leading to the ruins of the
Par Force Plantation.
Tamarind Tree
Trees
In the low lying area at the beginning of the trail you will
come upon a big tamarind tree that was split in half by lightning
in the past. Both sides are alive. A beehive in the tree is
reminiscent of the days when almost all the large trees on
St. John housed honeybees. Another species that has chosen
to make this tree its home is the termite, whose large nest
is plainly visible nestled in a branch on the far side of the
trail.
Genips
Genip
trees in the area produce sweet genips in the summer.
Note: The genips easily pickable on the lower branches disappear
fast.
Europa Point Spur Trail
About 50 yards west of the tamarind tree you will see a narrow
trail leading south towards the sea. This is the old National
Park Trail to Europa Point, abandoned when the National Park
workers cut the trail to Europa Bay, which begins about a quarter
mile further along the Lameshur Bay Trail.
Europa Bay Spur Trail Sign
Europa Pond
Europa
Bay Spur Trail
After passing the Europa Point Spur, the Lameshur Bay Trail begins
a steady incline. The trailhead for the Europa Bay Trail can
be found about 200 yards up the hill. Unlike the original trail,
the Europa Bay Trail trail is maintained by Park workers.
The quarter-mile track descends to the beach at Europa Bay,
passing by a salt pond just behind the beach. The salt pond is
home to several species of birds including pin tail ducks. The
best time to see the birds is early in the morning or just before
sunset.
Standing on the muddy shoreline of the pond, you will meet thousands
of fiddler crabs. So numerous are they that despite their diminutive
size you can here the pitter-patter of their little legs as they
scurry into the pond or back to their holes as soon as they become
aware of your presence.
Europa Bay View from Europa Point
View from Europa Point
After passing by the salt pond, the Europa Bay Spur Trail continues
through the flatsto the coral rubble beach at Europa Bay Waves
generally break over the shallow reef close to shore, but when
the sea is flat you can enter the water to snorkel at the north
end of the beach. The best snorkeling here (for experienced snorkelers
only and only then on extremely calm days) is around the point
to the south.
The beach is cooled by easterly trades and is usually quite
deserted, and thus, makes for a great picnic spot, as well as
a place to enjoy seclusion and natural beauty.
Europa Bay
Lameshur
Bay Trail from the Europa Spur West
Continuing on the main trail, just past the Europa Bay Spur Trail
entrance, you will find a stone bench, which was constructed
by the American Hiking Society in January of 1986. From here,
you can look down upon Little Lameshur and Great Lameshur Bays
and the Yawzi Point Peninsula that separates the two. The trail
continues up the valley until it crosses over the ridge at a
saddle in the mountains. At 467 feet, this is the highest point
of the trail, which descends steeply from here on. Loose rocks
on the trail can be slippery, so proceed with caution.
Stone Bench
A stone wall mottled with lichen can be found just off the trail
near the high point. These stones are of volcanic origin and
extremely hard. They are locally known as blue bitch. As you
descend into the Reef Bay Valley, you will be treated to spectacular
views of the valley, the outlying bay, the long fringing reef,
and the shallow inshore lagoon.
From this height you will also be able to observe the opening
in the reef at the center of the bay. The bluer water at the
aperture is deep enough to allow most sailing vessels entry into
the protected harbor behind the reef. This feature of Reef Bay
supported the development of the sugar plantations in the valley
due to the relative ease with which shipments of sugar and rum
could be loaded onto ships bound for Europe.
Fiddler Crab
As you approach the lower levels of the valley, you will come
to a fork in the trail. The wider, right-hand fork leads up to
the Reef Bay Greathouse. The narrower left-hand fork, which passes
through a profusion of sansevieria (mother-in-law tongue), leads
to the Reef Bay Trail. At the intersection of the Reef Bay Trail,
go left to reach the ruins of the Reef Bay Sugar Factory or go
right to access the Petroglyph Trail or to continue up to Centerline
Road. Reef Bay Estate House Spur
The spur trail to the Reef Bay (also known as Par Force) Estate
House begins on the Lameshur Bay Trail about 100 yards east of
the intersection with the Reef Bay Trail. It is a moderate to
steep quarter-mile climb to reach the plateau upon which the
greathouse was constructed.
Par Force Great House
Great House Entranceway
Artist's rendition of Great House
The
Reef Bay Estate House was built in 1832 and reconstructed in
1844. In 1994, it was partially renovated by the National Park
Service. The attention to architectural detail and the sturdy
construction of this building are noteworthy. As was the custom
in plantation days, the cookhouse or kitchen was built as a separate
structure. Here the ruins of the cookhouse are located just outside
the entrance to the greathouse. Caution - The renovation was
never completed and the structure has been allowed to fall into
an extreme state of disrepair. The trail to the Estate House
is officially closed and visits are discouraged.
Par Force Map
Estate
Par Force Spur
A local hiking group has reopened the trail to the extensive
Par Force Estate Ruins. The trail runs from the Reef Bay Estate
House spur at a switchback on the trail and leads down the valley
to the Par Force Estate. Lying alongside the gut are the remains
of the horsemill, the sugar factory, a cistern, an ox pound and
several dwellings.
The section of the trail that continues to meet the Reef Bay
Trail has overgrown to such an extent that it is just about impassable
as of the writing of this book. The Reef Bay Trail can more easily
be accessed from here by walking west along the gut.
