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Archive for May, 2009

Who in today’s western world has not heard of The Super Bowl, The World Series, The NBA finals, The British Open and the Wimbolton? How many of us have played ball games as youngsters and adults, games like baseball, basketball, soccer, football, tennis, stick ball, paddle ball, punch ball and literally hundreds of other ball games? Where did these games originate?

Before the arrival of Columbus Taino Amerindians played a rubber ball game at Cinnamon Bay on St. John as well as throughout their territories in the West Indies.

Games involving rubber balls were then unknown in Europe.

The Tainos called the game, and the court on which it was played, “batey.” The court was rectangular and was bordered by upright stone. Commoners sat on the stones or on embankments to view the game. Caciques (chiefs) and nobles sat on stools called duhos. Both men and women played, but there were no coed games. Men played with men, and women with women. Winning the game was thought to bring a good harvest and strong, healthy children.

The Spaniards, who had never seen rubber, were amazed by it. They brought the ball and the concept of the ball game back to Europe, and today ball games are an extremely important part of our culture.

Fray Bartolomé de Las Casas, who arrived in Santo Domingo with Columbus and was the most prolific chronicler of the Indians, gave us this description of the game:

“The Indians had a plaza located outside the door of the señor (cacique), well swept, three times as long as it was wide, and fenced in with stones. The fence was about one or two palm lengths high. They were penalized if they crossed this boundary. There were 20 or 30 Indians on each team and one team gathered at each end of the plaza. Each one bet what he had, it making no difference if what he had was of more value than that of another; this is how it was, after the Spanish arrived, that one Cacique would bet a red robe, and another an old rag, this was as if he
had bet a hundred castellanos. A player hit the ball and it was returned by the nearest opponent. If the ball came high, it was struck with the shoulder, if it came low, with the right hand. In the same manner they continued until someone erred. It was joy to see their heated play, and much more so when the women played against each other, striking the ball with their knees and closed fists.”

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Notwithstanding the Weather Underground‘s advisory, “Flash Flood Watch in effect through Wednesday evening…,” the weather outside is sunshine, breezy and warm. They did , however, lower their
“chance of rain” from 90% this morning to 20% now. Ninety or twenty, I haven’t felt a drop all day.

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Here’s some stuff from yesterday’s experiences on St. John. Biggest thing was the rain. All day – a gutwashing downpour. Anywhere there was runoff of guts or hills the water passed through in torrents and collected anywhere it could. The South Shore Road had to be closed for a while at Guinea Gut, just west of the Westin Resort. Most of the bays are brown with runoff from the land, some natural, some man made. The rain let up by the afternoon and we had a few passing squalls during the night.

Now, (6:00 AM) the skies are clear in the east with some sunshine, but according to the weather bureau, we could be getting some more heavy stuff later on. Weather Underground has us under the advisory… “Flash Flood Watch in effect from noon AST today through this evening…” (They write that stuff in red to get your attention)

Last night on a trip to Dolphin Market, I noticed that the roads were hopping with frogs. You don’t usually see the creatures although you do hear them well enough at night, but last night I guess they were forced out of where they normally hang out and were jumping about all over the place, big Cuban frogs and little ones too.

Speaking of Dolphin Market, they’re giving a 15% off sale (have to purchase more than $50) during the month of May. It’s a good store, with plenty of organic choices, nice produce department and better prices, by and large, than Starfish.

Some rumors for you:

The Gym in Paradise is supposed to open soon – today maybe? Who knows?

Colombian Emeralds, by the dock at Cruz Bay is due to close down at the end of the month.

The Sirenusa project was taken over by another outfit leading to the possibility that they may actually finish up.

G

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Finally!

Our well needed rain. And it’s a beauty. A gut washing, thunder clapping, one squall after the next, rain!

Good T’ing!

G

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Yesterday I hiked the Great Seiban, old Danish Road that connected Estate Seiban to Fish Bay and observed where and how the trail had been rerouted.

Instead of leading to the lower portion of the Seiban Estate near the Baobob tree, a new trail was cut along the edge of the estate leading to the L’Esperance Trail about 20 yards east of the narrow access trail from the L’Esperance Road to the Seaiban Estate.

About a month ago, volunteers from the Friends of the Park cleared the Seiban ruins and improved the access through the estate via the L’esperance road.

The trail crew also rerouted the Great Seiban citing archeological concerns.

Why this is was a concern is beyond me. Certainly nobody was concerned it while the old estate was slowly deteriorating lost in the bush, and neither is anybody concerned about access to the estate from tha L’Esperance Road. So what was the problem with the Great Seiban?

As far as anyone I know on St. John remembers, this old road was completed lost in the bush until it was found and cleared by the Trail Bandit and local hikers a few years ago.

dry stacked stone on lower side of road

dry stacked stone on lower side of road

As with all of the Trail Bandit’s work, the newly-cleared trail is historically correct, that is, it follows the actual route of the old road. This can readily be seen by observing the dry stacked stone on the lower edge of the road still in evidence along the great majority of the route.

The narrow trail from the L’Esperance Road that leads through the ruins was left intact. Unlike the Great Seiban, this trail is not historically correct, it simply provides access to the estate so that hikers could access the ruins.

Why then was the Great Seiban Road was rerouted to preserve the archeological importance of the ruins?

Like I said, it’s beyond me.

The Great Seiban

Special Features
The Great Seiban provides a shorter route than taking the L’Esperance Road for those hikers wishing to visit the Seiban Estate or the Baobob Tree.

Fish Bay Valley

Fish Bay Valley

There are impressive views of Fish Bay and the Fish Bay Valley along the trail.

Distance: 0.5 mile

Elevations
The Great seiban has a moderate incline with an elevation of about 360 feet at the Fish Bay trailhead and about 580 feet at the intersection of the L’Esperance Road, a gain of 220 feet over the half mile of trail.

About the Trail
An old Danish Road, the Great Sieban, connects the L’Esperance Road at Estate Seiban to Fish Bay. The trail, recently opened by the Trail Bandit and local hikers, descended from the Sieban Ruins near the baobob tree, following the contour of the Fish Bay Valley and leading to a residential area of Fish Bay.

In 2009, Friends of the Park volunteer trail crew rerouted the upper portion of the road to connect to the L’Esperance Trail about 20 yards east of the narrow access trail from the L’Esperance Road to the Seaiban Estate.

The hand-built road constructed in colonial times has weathered the centuries well, as can be seen by the good condition of much of the stone retaining walls supporting the lower side of the road.

The Great Sieban passes through shady moist forest with stands of guavaberry, West Indian Birch, genip and turpentine trees underneath which are bromeliads, anthuriums and love leaf.

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Anne Higham, who to me always had a good attitude, a warm smile and who was simply a pleasure to be around died early yesterday morning in a car crash on Centerline Road.

According to police, the road was slippery and she apparently had lost control of the vehicle going around a curve. The car went off the road and down the steep hillside.

Anne and Brian Hadley, a passenger in the vehicle, were taken to Myrah Keating Smith Community Health Center, where Anne was pronounced dead. Brian was treated and released.

Goodbye, Anne, we’re going to miss you.

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In 1647 the Caribbean island of St. Kitts was a hotbed of conspiracies, intrigues and power struggles. One of these conflicts involved the attempt by a certain Monsieur de Poiney to replace the then Governor General of the island.

Monsieur de Poiney had many powerful and important allies, but he also had many enemies. De Poiney had a tendency to deal quite harshly and ruthlessly with those who stood in the way of his goals. He divided his adversaries into two categories corresponding to their social position. His lower class opponents would often find themselves deported for one reason or another. Others turned up dead or missing. Some of  his enemies, however, were prominent citizens who were not so easy to silence. If he had them sent back to France, they could cause trouble for him, and if they were to disappear or suffer untimely deaths, an investigation would ensue which could prove, at the very least, embarrassing.

De Poiney, being a creative individual, arranged for the formation of an expedition to explore and settle an outlying island. Sixty people, all political adversaries of  De Poiney, were chosen to make the excursion.  They were not expected to survive the voyage. Almost as soon as their ship weighed anchor, their lands and personal property were confiscated and sold to the highest bidder.

The captain of the ship carrying these unfortunates was a man named Jean Pinart. His instructions were to arrange for the demise of his passengers, but Pinart was not as cold blooded as his superior. He took the “explorers” to an island where food and water could be found. He also allowed them to keep a small boat and some tools and other supplies. From what records remain, it is very possible that this island was none other than St. John.

At this time the Virgin Islands were mostly uninhabited save for sporadic visits by pirates, woodcutters, fishermen and hunters. Spain still laid claim to the Virgin Islands by “right of discovery”. Although the Spanish never attempted to settle the islands, they did make occasional patrols to discourage others from doing so. On the first day ashore the castaways made a rather unnerving discovery. While preparing rudimentary shelters and scouting about the area, several fresh corpses were found on a nearby beach. They were Englishmen who had been caught there by the Spanish.

A week later a lone Spanish ship anchored in a nearby bay. A party of soldiers rowed ashore and attacked the settlers. When the Spanish realized they were vastly outnumbered, they beat a hasty retreat.

The very next day the Spaniards returned in greater number. Many of the exiles were killed. The survivors were dispersed into the hills and thick bush. Before setting sail the Spanish destroyed the exile’s camp, wrecked their boat and confiscated all their supplies.

The survivors of the attack reunited later that day. Their situation was desperate. They searched the wrecked campsite for anything useful that might have been overlooked by the Spaniards. They found one ax and one cutlass. They decided to construct a raft and send out a party in search of help.

Trees were cut and lashed together with whist vine to fashion a marginally seaworthy fourteen foot raft. A sail was fashioned out of  cloth from the exiles clothing and sewn together using the “needle and thread” found within the leaf of the century plant. Oars were painstakingly carved and the boat was provisioned as well as possible.

Five men were chosen to set out to sea and look for help. They had no charts, no navigational equipment and little sailing experience. At first they decided to head east in an attempt to return to St. Kitts. The crew soon found that the little raft could hardly sail into the wind at all. After an entire night of arduous rowing they had only reached what we believe to be Norman Island.

The men spent the next day searching for food and fresh water, neither of which were to be found. They did, however, make the rather ominous discovery of the bones of an earlier visitor.

Because their progress upwind was painstakingly slow and difficult, the voyagers decided to abandon the idea of sailing to St. Kitts. Their only alternative was to head west and sail downwind even though they lacked knowledge of the geography of the area and had little idea of what lands lay in that direction.

Early the next morning the courageous crew once again put out to sea. They sailed along the southern coast of St. John, crossed Pillsbury Sound and made landfall on St. Thomas in late afternoon.

The next day the men began to explore the island looking for signs of human habitation. No settlements were found, but provisions, such as wild fruits and fresh water, were secured for the next leg of the journey.

The following morning the adventurers left St. Thomas taking advantage of that day’s brisk tradewinds. They sailed all day and all night and came ashore on a small beach on the island of Puerto Rico in the late morning. The men soon realized where they were, and their fear of the Spanish prevented them from seeking aid. Consequently, they continued on their way, only coming ashore on uninhabited parts of the island where the raft could secretly be provisioned.

When the rafters reached the western tip of Puerto Rico, they made the decision to continue across the vast passage that lay in front of them. They knew there would be no turning back. The seas became rough, and the raft was in imminent danger of breaking up or capsizing. Against all odds the badly damaged craft safely reached Mona Island which lies between Puerto Rico and Hispaniola almost in the middle of the Mona Passage.

Afraid to continue across the passage and unable to return in the direction from which they came, the five would be rescuers realized that they themselves were now marooned. They gave up their hope of obtaining help for their colleagues stranded on St. John and concentrated on their own rescue and survival.

An exploration of the island revealed abandoned huts and the remains of a small settlement. Here the castaways were able to find shelter and salvage some tools and supplies. They also found the island to have an abundance of wild fowl, readily available sea food and a variety of native fruits. For three months they eked out a meager existence.

One day a lookout spotted a vessel which was about to pass near the island. Being on the verge of starvation, the men chanced a hostile reception and lit their signal fire. The ship turned out to be a fishing boat out of Puerto Rico. Even though the captain and crew were Spanish, they took pity on the rag-tag group of adventurers and gave them clothing, bread and wine. The captain promised to come back to the island after the completion of their fishing expedition. At that time the exiles could chose whether or not they wanted to return with the boat and face a possibly unpleasant reception in the Spanish settlement of San Juan.

Two weeks later the fishermen reappeared and our intrepid adventurers decided to end their exile and take their chances with the Spanish. On the first day out an incredible thing happened. Another raft carrying a bedraggled crew of six was sighted about five miles off the coast of Puerto Rico. The raft was approached by the fishing vessel, and its occupants were taken aboard. By extraordinary coincidence these rafters turned out to be the last survivors of the original sixty St. Kitts colonists who had been marooned on St. John.

Upon reaching San Juan, the eleven survivors disembarked, resigning themselves to whatever fate awaited them at the hands of the Spanish authorities. Their amazing tale of survival and coincidence, however, enthralled all who heard it. Rather than being imprisoned or executed, the exiles received a heroes welcome. They found jobs in San Juan and eventually earned enough money to book passage back to Europe; all except for one, that is, who married a local woman and lived the rest of his days in Puerto Rico.

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Brought to you by Gerald Singer, St. John US Virgin Islands (USVI)